Dinghy Project 3
You can never have (or build) too many small boats :-). 
Here is my previous dinghy.  Here is the one before that.
 
Lake Placid, 18 Jan 2016
This one will be a Spindrift Dinghy 11N, another stitch&glue nesting dinghy. 
 Here are the costs (so far) ...
ItemCostShip- pingSourceNotes
Plans $66 ~$5 B&B Yacht Designs The plans consisted of 13 A3 (11½" x 16½") sheets of drawings and instructions, and 25 8½" x 11" pages of material list, sources, their prices for materials and hardware, etc.  The plans include pretty good detail on the sail rig.  There is a helpful list of recommended sources for the plywood, aluminum tubing for the mast and other materials.  All in all, it looks like a pretty good set of plans.
Plywood 5 sheets @ $72.80 = $364 ? World Panel Products
Fiberglass & resin $1032 0 discount marine supplies .com
> 5 gallons of West System epoxy.
> 10 yds of 4 oz. cloth that I plan to apply to the bottom, sole and tops of the thwarts (seats).  The cloth added $137 to the cost not in the original plans from B&B.
> 3 6.7oz containers of 406 West System Colloidal Silica in this order.  Probably more than I need, but it seems like I never have enough.
> $50 of accessories - mixing sticks, roller covers, etc.
Clamps for joining the halves
> A pair of Perko 1112DP0CHR Hold Down Clamps.  These were expensive ($60 each), but I expect they will be very convenient.  Garry Prater, who came up with this idea, described how he was able to join the two halves in the water and how he did that once in gale-force winds in an emergency - when he had to launch his dinghy to carry out an anchor in the Intracoastal Waterway during a sudden storm.  (Times like that make for *very* vivid memories :-)  I used these on my 10N and found it pretty easy to assemble and disassemble it in the water.
5" dia. watertight deck plates These will be for access to the flotation compartments.
Misc hardware $14 $10 Mauri Pro
> Schaefer 1 7/16" sheave for the top of the mast.
$50
$4 (tax)
  West Marine
> Oarlocks and sockets. I like these sockets because they have replaceable nylon sleeves and are nice and quiet.
Line, blocks $218 0 P2 Marine
> 46' x 5/16" and 126' x 3/16" of NER Sta-Set in various colors.
> Harken 29mm Carbo blocks - 1 single w/ becket and 2 singles
> 3 Harken Micro Blocks and 1 Harken Micro Traveler Block
> 4 Harken 4mm Shallow Bow Shackles
Sail $536 ? B&B Yacht Designs
> The sail ($420) comes with a zippered luff, 1 reef point.  Also included are the insignia and sail# and a sailbag.  The one I got from them for the 10N seemed to be well made.
> Roll of 3" tape.
> Misc hardware - the gudgeons and pintles, a quick release clam cleat, gooseneck, outhaul blocks, eyestrps, clam cleats
Stainless steel $183
(material)
 
$15
(tax)
 
$xx
(fab)
$36
 
Online Metals (STAINLESS RECTANGLE 316/316L)
> 3' of ⅛" x 1½" Stainless Steel Flat Bar T-316/316L for the mast plate and the brackets to join the two halves.  I'll have a local fabricator drill and countersink the holes and make the bends.
 $14.65 Stainless T-316/316L Rectangle 0.125" x 1.5" Cut to: 36"
Mast Online Metals (6061-T6 ALUMINUM TUBE) > Three 6' lengths of 6061-T6 Aluminum tubing for the mast. 
 $73.67  Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Drawn Tube  2.25" x 0.065" x 2.12"  Cut to: 72"
 $51.19  Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Drawn Tube  2" x 0.065" x 1.87"     Cut to: 72"
 $43.03  Aluminum 6061-T6 Bare Drawn Tube  1.75" x 0.065" x 1.62"  Cut to: 72"
Paint, etc ~$200 - Local hardware store Petit Easypoxy: 1 quart of Undercoat, 2 quarts of Semi-gloss White, 1 quart of Bikini Blue.
~$300 Edwin's Boat Yard 1 pint of Sea Hawk Primer, 2 quarts of Sea Hawk 44 Bottom Paint
? Various Hinges for the oar holders, 4 small cleats, caulk to bed the fittings, screws, brushes, etc, etc.
Shipping & customs - ? Abaco Shipping, Arawak Agency (Customs Brokers)
Base boat
Sail rig
Subtotals
$xxxx  
$  xxx  
$xxxx  
$xxx
Total $xxxx (probably missing a few small things)
References:
   Woodfinder
 
 
Plan
The plan is to be pretty similar to the 10N I built a couple years ago, with the following changes:
  • 11' long instead of 10'
  • I built the 10N "like a battleship".  On this one I plan to use less fiberglass to protect the surfaces.  I think I'll use 4oz cloth instead of 6oz.  And use it on just the bottom, the sole and the tops of the thwarts (seats).  The downside is that I will need to check the surface for breaks and checks from time to time.  On the 10N, this was not necessary.  There's no free lunch.
Materials arrive
Man-O-War Cay, 2 Feb 2016
I shipped the materials over on the Duke from West Palm Beach to Marsh Harbour.  After clearing customs in Marsh Harbour, they were put on the cargo boat to MOW.  Here they arrive at the Public Dock on MOW.  The Public Dock is just a stone's throw from Edwin's #2 where I will do the construction.
Setting up
Man-O-War Cay, 26 Feb 2016
I used the pallets on which the material was shipped for my table - simply resting them on cement blocks and shimming up as necessary.
I then stacked the plywood on top of the pallets (with a sheet of scrap ¼" birch plywood between the bottom piece of plywood and the pallet to protect it).
 
To the right is the marking on the plywood. Click on the image to enlarge.
 
World Panel Products said it was "from a Greek mill, Mourikis. It is BS1088 and Lloyds registered".  I think it tends to curl up in the sun more than the Garnica plywood I got from them last time.  Once it gets stressed into shape, epoxy resin applied and painted, I assume there won't be any of this.  But it still makes me wonder.

Scarf joints
The first thing to do is join 4' x 8' panels to 4' x 4' panels (ie. a 4' x 8' panel cut in half) to make two 4' x 12' panels.  I made scarf joints in the panel edges using my ¼" router with a ½" straight bit.
 
I am using a 12:1 ratio scarf - that is, a 3" overlap.
Here the panels have been glued together with epoxy resin - with first a coating on each surface of the joint, then a coat of slightly thickened epoxy resin in the joint to take up any voids.
 
I screwed in a couple sheetrock screws - one on each end of the joint - to hold the panels in place while the epoxy sets.  I put plastic sheet above and below and between the panels to keep things from sticking together.
I left it overnight with some weight on the joint, while the epoxy set up.

Fiberglass Tape
Lake Placid, 12 May 2016
I cut out the pieces of plywood as specified in the plans and attached the sides to the bottoms using 7-8" lengths of 3" fiberglass tape as the plans suggest.  I may have been a little too forceful (errrrr, careless) when trying to unfold them in the "butterfly step", but all 4 pieces of tape ripped IMO way too easily as we were "unfolding" the hull.
 
On my previous dinghy, I used West System 3" Episize Glass tape.  On this one, I bought the 3" fiberglass tape from B&B.  I think the West System tape was appreciably stronger.  The tape from B&B wets out much more easily, FWIW.
 
To recover and try again, I sanded off all the old fiberglass tape and resin.  For the second try, I used two layers of fiberglass tape on each side.  In addition, I added a bunch of 12 gauge copper wire ties between the panels.  Click on the image to the right for a better view.

Unfolded, wired and initial fillets on
Chad, the manager of Edwin's #2 helped me unfolding the hull in the "butterfly step".
 
The photos to the right show the hull after making the initial fillets between the wire ties.
 
I checked for racking using fishing line run diagonally across opposite corners (click on either photo to enlarge) and observing the difference between the lines where they cross.  To remove the ever so slight twist (maybe ¼" difference where the fishing line crossed), I simply elevated the stern corner of the low side.

 
Below are some photos from the construction.
Looking down the center of the interior from the stern.
Reinforcement on the forward side of the forward bulkhead. I probably could have saved a few ounces with less wood here.
I used a couple sheetrock screws on either side of the nesting bulkhead to hold it in place against the floor. They are fastened to 12 ga. copper wire which passes through the bulkhead.

Gunwales
Here the gunwales have been glued onto the hull using clamps every 6" or so.  Again, I checked for racking using the fishing line before we started to glue up.
 
I had pre-drilled the holes for the screws fastening the gunwales to the breast hook (ie. a dry fit before applying resin) so that all went together easily when it came time to glue everything together.  I didn't install the knees until after the resin attaching the gunwales had set up.  I think that made it a lot easier and didn't take anything away from the results.
 
Chad with his father, Blake, helped me install the gunwales.  This helped immensely.  And it was a real treat to have these experienced and most capable guys help.
 
Chad and the boat yard were very gracious in putting an unused flybridge over my work area to give me some shade.  Even though it was still only April, the sun and heat were already getting strong.

Bottom taped
After the gunwales had set up, I flipped the hull over, rounded over the chines using a small block plane and sandpaper, and then glued 3" fiberglass tape over the joints.
 
Then Chad helped me put the hull upstairs in Edwin's #2 for storage until I come back in December.

Lake Placid, 12 June 2016
Even though this 11N is only 1' longer and just 4" beamier than the 10N I built a couple years ago, it SEEMS SO MUCH LARGER inside.  I can't get over it.  BTW, the freeboard is about the same - I had added 2" to the 10N's freeboard.
Model LengthBeamHeight
10N
(plus the 2" that I added
to the freeboard)
10' + ~1"4' 2½"21½" + 2" =
23½"
11N 11'4' 6½"24"
Source: bandbyachtdesigns.com/spindrift/

...
Misc notes:
  -  Spindrift construction blogs:
   All about Seaweed: Building a Spindrift 9ft Nesting Dinghy (w/ enlarged photos)
 Expedition Dinghy - Garry Prater's 11N.
 I’m guessing I spent between 80-100 hours on mine… (pic) - notes and a photo.
 A 12'er shown stored aboard a (large) Crealock
Building a Nesting Dinghy - a 9N.  Looks like he used Garry Prater's Perko Clamp trick for joining the halves.
 Brian Morris's photos - looks like a nice neat job.
 The Cruise of the "Beyond" - an 11N.
 Toledo Community Boathouse - Building a B&B Yacht Designs Spindrift 11N
 Justin's Spindrift Build ~ A history of my Spindrift 11N build
Other construction blogs:
    Minipaw Dinghy "No Regrets" (nice writeup. I like his paint job)
    PDRacer, future nesting dinghy

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